|Skin Care Ingredient Science Series| I-Niacinamide (ivithamin B3)

I-Niacinamide (I-panacea kwilizwe lokhathalelo lolusu)

Niacinamide, ekwaziwa ngokuba yi-vitamin B3 (VB3), luhlobo olusebenzayo lwe-biologically ye-niacin kwaye ifumaneka ngokubanzi kwiintlobo ngeentlobo zezilwanyana nezityalo. Kwakhona i-precursor ebalulekileyo ye-cofactors i-NADH (i-nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide) kunye ne-NADPH (i-nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate). Kunye nokuncipha kwe-NADH kunye ne-NADPH, zisebenza njenge-coenzymes ngaphezulu kwe-40 ye-biochemical reactions kwaye zikwasebenza njenge-antioxidants.

Ngokonyango, isetyenziselwa ukukhusela kunye nokunyanga i-pellagra, i-stomatitis, i-glossitis kunye nezinye izifo ezinxulumene nazo.

eyona ndima ibalulekileyo
1.Ulusu luyakhanya kwaye lube mhlophe

I-Nicotinamide inokuhla-ukulawula ukuthuthwa kwee-melanosomes ukusuka kwi-melanocytes ukuya kwi-keratinocytes ngaphandle kokuthintela umsebenzi we-tyrosinase okanye ukwanda kweeseli, ngaloo ndlela kuchaphazela i-pigmentation yesikhumba. Kwakhona kunokuphazamisa ukusebenzisana phakathi kwe-keratinocytes kunye ne-melanocytes. Iitshaneli zokubonisa iiseli phakathi kweeseli zinciphisa ukuveliswa kwe-melanin. Kwelinye icala, i-nicotinamide inokusebenza kwi-melanin esele ivelisiwe kwaye inciphise ukudluliselwa kwayo kwiiseli ezingaphezulu.

Enye imbono kukuba i-nicotinamide inomsebenzi we-anti-glycation, enokuthi idibanise umbala omthubi weprotheni emva kwe-glycation, eya kuba luncedo ekuphuculeni umbala wesikhumba sobuso obunombala wemifuno kunye "nabafazi abanobuso obuphuzi".
Yandisa ukuqonda

Xa i-niacinamide isetyenziswa njengesithako esimhlophe, ekugxineni kwe-2% ukuya kwi-5%, ibonakaliswe ukuba iyasebenza ekunyangeni i-chloasma kunye ne-hyperpigmentation ebangelwa imitha ye-ultraviolet.

2.Ukuchasa ukuguga, ukuphucula imigca ecolekileyo (anti-free radicals)

I-Niacinamide inokuvuselela i-collagen synthesis (ukwandisa isantya kunye nomthamo we-collagen synthesis), yonyusa ukuqina kolusu, kwaye inciphise ukubonakala kwemigca emihle kunye nemibimbi. Ikwanepropathi ye-antioxidant eyenza i-radicals yamahhala kwaye icothise inkqubo yokuguga yolusu.
Yandisa ukuqonda

Uphononongo lubonise ukuba ukusebenzisa i-nicotinamide (umxholo we-5%) kunokunciphisa imibimbi, i-erythema, umthubi kunye namabala kulusu lobuso olugugayo.

3.Lungisa ulusuumqobo umsebenzi
Ukulungiswa kweNiacinamide komsebenzi wokuthintela ulusu kubonakaliswa ikakhulu kwimiba emibini:

① Ukukhuthaza ukwenziwa kwe-ceramide eluswini;

②Ukukhawulezisa ukwahlukana kweeseli zekeratin;
Ukusetyenziswa okuphambili kwe-nicotinamide kunokonyusa amanqanaba eeasidi zasimahla kunye neekeramidi eluswini, kuvuselele i-microcirculation kwidermis, kwaye kuthintele ukulahleka kokufuma kolusu.

Kwakhona kwandisa i-protein synthesis (njenge-keratin), inyusa amanqanaba e-NADPH ye-intracellular (nicotinamide adenine dinucleotide phosphate), kwaye ikhawuleza ukuhlukana kwe-keratinocyte.
Yandisa ukuqonda

Ukukwazi ukuphucula umsebenzi wokuthintela ulusu okhankanywe ngasentla kuthetha ukuba i-niacinamide inamandla okuthambisa. Uphononongo oluncinci lubonisa ukuba i-2% ye-niacinamide ye-topical iyasebenza ngakumbi kune-petroleum jelly (ijeli yepetroleum) ekunciphiseni ukulahleka kwamanzi eluswini kunye nokunyusa ukuhanjiswa kwamanzi.

Best indibaniselwano izithako
1. Indibaniselwano yokususa i-whitening kunye ne-freckle: niacinamide +retinol A
2. Indibaniselwano yokufumisa nzulu:i-hyaluronic acid+ squalane