Kwilizwe le-skincare, i-niacinamide ifana nembaleki ejikeleze yonke indawo, eyoyisa iintliziyo zabathandi bobuhle abaninzi kunye neziphumo zayo ezininzi. Namhlanje, makhe sityhile isigqubuthelo esingaqondakaliyo sale “nkwenkwezi yokhathalelo lwesikhumba” kwaye siphonononge iimfihlakalo zayo zenzululwazi kunye nokusetyenziswa okusebenzayo kunye.
1. Ukuchazwa kwenzululwazi ye-nicotinamide
Niacinamideluhlobo lwevithamin B3, ngokwekhemikhali eyaziwa ngokuba yipyridine-3-carboxamide. Isakhiwo sayo se-molecular iqukethe i-pyridine ring kunye neqela le-amide, elinika ngokuzinza okugqwesileyo kunye nomsebenzi we-biological.
Indlela yokusebenza kwesikhumba ibandakanya ukuthintela ukuhanjiswa kwe-melanin, ukuphucula umsebenzi wokuthintela ulusu, kunye nokulawula ukukhutshwa kwe-sebum. Uphando luye lwabonisa ukuba i-nicotinamide inokunyusa kakhulu ukuhlanganiswa kwee-ceramides kunye ne-fatty acids, iphucula ingqibelelo ye-stratum corneum.
I-bioavailability ngundoqo ekusebenzeni kwe-nicotinamide. Inobunzima obuncinci be-molecular (122.12 g / mol), ukunyibilika okunamandla kwamanzi, kwaye kunokungena ngokufanelekileyo kwi-epidermis. Idatha yovavanyo ibonisa ukuba i-bioavailability ye-nicotinamide ye-topical inokufikelela ngaphezulu kwe-60%.
2, Iziphumo ezininzi ze-nicotinamide
Kwintsimi yobumhlophe, i-nicotinamide ifezekisa ithoni yesikhumba efanayo ngokuthintela ukuhanjiswa kwe-melanosomes kwi-keratinocytes. Ulingo lwezonyango lubonise ukuba emva kokusebenzisa imveliso equkethe i-5% ye-niacinamide kwiiveki ezi-8, indawo ye-pigmentation yehle nge-35%.
Ukulawula i-oyile kunye nokususwa kwe-acne, i-niacinamide inokulawula ukusebenza kwe-sebaceous gland kunye nokunciphisa ukukhutshwa kwe-sebum. Uphando luye lwaqinisekisa ukuba emva kokusebenzisa iimveliso eziqukethe i-2% ye-niacinamide kwiiveki ezi-4, i-sebum secretion iyancipha ngama-25% kwaye inani lamaqhakuva liyancipha ngama-40%.
Ngokumalunga nokuchasana nokuguga, i-niacinamide inokuvuselela i-collagen synthesis kunye nokuphucula ukuqina kolusu. Iimvavanyo zibonise ukuba ukusebenzisa imveliso ene-5% ye-niacinamide kwiiveki ze-12 kunciphisa imigca emihle yesikhumba nge-20% kwaye yonyusa u-elasticity ngama-30%.
Ukulungisa umsebenzi wesithintelo yenye inzuzo enkulu yeniacinamide. Inokukhuthaza ukuhlanganiswa kwee-ceramide kunye nokuphucula amandla esikhumba ukugcina amanzi. Emva kokusebenzisa imveliso equlethe i-5% ye-niacinamide kwiiveki ezi-2, ukulahleka kokufuma kwe-transdermal kwesikhumba kwehle nge-40%.
3, Ukusetyenziswa okusebenzayo kwe-nicotinamide
Xa ukhetha iimveliso eziqukethe i-niacinamide, ingqalelo kufuneka ihlawulwe ekugxininiseni kunye nefomula. I-2% -5% luluhlu olukhuselekileyo nolusebenzayo lokugxininiswa, kwaye ugxininiso olugqithisileyo lunokubangela ukucaphuka. Kucetyiswa ukuba uqale ngogxininiso oluphantsi kwaye ngokuthe ngcembe umisele ukunyamezelana.
Iingcebiso zokusetyenziswa ziquka: ukusebenzisa ekuseni nakusihlwa, ukudibanisa kunye ne-antioxidants (ezifana ne-vitamin C), kwaye ubeke ingqalelo ekukhuselweni kwelanga. Uphando lubonise ukuba indibaniselwano ye-niacinamide kunye ne-vitamin C inokuvelisa i-synergistic effect.
Isilumkiso: Ukucaphuka okuncinci kunokwenzeka ngexesha lokusetyenziswa kokuqala, kuyacetyiswa ukuba kuqhutywe uvavanyo lwendawo kuqala. Kuphephe ukusebenzisa iimveliso ezineasidi egqithisileyo ukunciphisa uzinzo lweniacinamide.
Ukufunyanwa kunye nokusetyenziswa kwe-nicotinamide kuzise impumelelo eguqukileyo kwicandelo lokhathalelo lwesikhumba. Ukusuka ekubeni mhlophe kunye nokukhanya kwamabala ukuya kulawulo lweoyile kunye nokuthintela amaqhakuva, ukusuka ekuchaseni ukuguga ukuya ekulungisweni komqobo, ezi zithako zisebenza ngeendlela ezininzi zitshintsha indlela esikhathalela ngayo ulusu lwethu. Ngokuqonda kwesayensi kunye nokusetyenziswa ngokufanelekileyo, sinokusebenzisa ngokupheleleyo ukusebenza kwe-niacinamide ukufezekisa ulusu olusempilweni noluhle. Masiqhubeke sihlola iimfihlakalo ze-skincare kwaye siqhubeke sibheka phambili kwindlela yokusukela ubuhle.
Ixesha lokuposa: Mar-19-2025
