Ukusukela ithoni eqaqambileyo kunye neyolusu, izithako ezimhlophe zihlala ziziswa, kwaye i-arbutin, njengenye yezona zinto zibalaseleyo, itsale ingqalelo enkulu kwimithombo yayo yendalo kunye neziphumo ezibalulekileyo. Esi sithako sisebenzayo sithatyathwe kwizityalo ezinje ngebhere yeziqhamo kunye nomthi wamapere iye yaba yindima ebalulekileyo kwaye ibalulekileyo kwiimveliso zangoku ezimhlophe kunye ne-skincare. Eli nqaku liza kuphonononga kwindlela yokwenza mhlophe ye-arbutin, ukusebenza kwayo okuqinisekisiweyo ngokwesayensi, kunye nendlela yokuyibandakanya ngokukhuselekileyo nangempumelelo kwiindlela zokhathalelo lwemihla ngemihla.
1, Indlela yokwenza mhlophe yearbutin
Impembelelo emhlophe ye-arbutin ivela kwisakhiwo sayo esisodwa semolekyuli kunye nendlela yokwenza. Njengohlobo lwe-glucoside compound, i-arbutin inokuthintela ngokukhuphisanayo umsebenzi we-tyrosinase, i-enzyme ephambili kwinkqubo yokuvelisa i-melanin. Ngokungafaniyo nezinye izithako ezinamandla kodwa ezinokucaphukisa ukwenza mhlophe, i-arbutin iphazamisa ngobunono ukuguqulwa kwe-dopa kwi-dopaquinone, ngaloo ndlela inciphisa imveliso ye-melanin kumthombo.
Uphando lubonise ukuba i-arbutin ine-dose exhomekeke kwi-inhibitory effect, kwaye isakhono sokuthintela se-α-arbutin singcono kakhulu kune-β-isomer yayo. Xa isetyenziswa eluswini, i-arbutin ikhupha ngokuthe ngcembe i-hydroquinone, kodwa oku kukhutshwa kucotha kwaye kuyalawuleka, kuthintela ukucaphuka kunye neziphumo ebezingalindelekanga ezinokubangelwa kukuxinana okuphezulu kwe-hydroquinone. Ukongeza, i-arbutin inokuthintela ukwanda kwe-melanocytes kunye nokudluliselwa kwamasuntswana e-melanin aqolileyo kwi-keratinocytes, ukufezekisa ukukhuselwa kwamanqanaba amaninzi amhlophe.
2, Ukuqinisekiswa kokusebenza kweklinikhi ye-arbutin
Uninzi lwezifundo zesayensi ziqinisekisile ukusebenza okugqwesileyo kwe-arbutin ekuphuculeni iingxaki ezahlukeneyo zombala. Kuphononongo lweveki ye-12 yeklinikhi, abantu abasebenzisa iimveliso ezine-2% ye-alpha arbutin babonise ukuncipha okubonakalayo kombala kunye nokuqaqamba kolusu luphela, kungekho ziziphumo zibi zichaziweyo. Uvavanyo lokuthelekisa lubonise ukuba i-arbutin ithelekiseka nezinye izithako zemveli ezimhlophe ekuphuculeni i-melasma, i-sunspots, kunye ne-pigmentation yasemva kokudumba, kodwa inonyamezelo olungcono.
Isiphumo esimhlophe se-arbutin sihlala siqala ukubonakala emva kweeveki ezi-4-8 zokusetyenziswa, kwaye ukusetyenziswa okuqhubekayo kunokuphucula ukuphuculwa. Kuyaphawuleka ukuba i-arbutin ayinakukhanyisela umbala okhoyo kuphela, kodwa ikwanqanda ukuvela kombala omtsha, iyenze ibe lolona khetho lufanelekileyo kulawulo olubanzi lobumhlophe. Xa isetyenziswe ngokudibeneyo nezinye izithako ezimhlophe ezifana ne-vitamin C, i-niacinamide, okanye i-quercetin, i-arbutin inokuvelisa i-synergistic effect, iphucula umphumo wokuba mhlophe.
3, Iingcebiso zokukhetha kunye nokusetyenziswa kweemveliso ze-arbutin
Kukho iintlobo ngeentloboarbutiniimveliso kwimarike, kwaye abathengi kufuneka ingqalelo izikhombisi eziliqela ezingundoqo ukuqinisekisa umgangatho. Iimveliso ezikumgangatho ophezulu kufuneka zibhale ngokucacileyo uhlobo lwe-arbutin (ngokukhethekileyo i-alpha arbutin) kunye noxinzelelo (ngokuqhelekileyo phakathi kwe-1-3%), kwaye isebenzise ukupakishwa okuzinzileyo ukuphepha ukuthotywa kwefoto. Iimveliso ezine-antioxidants ezifana ne-vitamin E zinokugcina ngcono umsebenzi we-arbutin.
Xa ufaka i-arbutin kukhathalelo lwemihla ngemihla, kuyacetyiswa ukuba uqale ngogxininiso oluphantsi kwaye ngokuthe ngcembe umisele unyamezelo. Elona xesha lilungileyo lokusebenzisa lixesha lenkqubo yokhathalelo lwesikhumba yangokuhlwa, enokuthi idityaniswe neemveliso zokuthambisa ukuze kuphuculwe ukungena. Nangona i-arbutin inezinga eliphezulu lobulali, kuyimfuneko ukomeleza ukukhuselwa kwelanga xa isetyenziswa emini. Kucetyiswa ukuba idityaniswe nesithambiso selanga esibanzi esine-SPF30 okanye ngaphezulu. Kuyafaneleka ukuba uqaphele ukuba i-arbutin ayifanelekanga ukusetyenziswa ngaxeshanye kunye neemveliso eziphezulu ze-acidic zoxinaniso ukuphepha ukuchaphazela ukuzinza kwayo.
I-Arbutin, eneempawu zayo zendalo, ezisebenzayo, kunye nezithambileyo, ikwindawo engenakuphinda ithathelwe indawo kwindawo yokwenza mhlophe. Nokuba isetyenziswe yodwa okanye idityaniswe nezinye izithako ezisebenzayo, i-arbutin inokubonelela ngokhetho olukhuselekileyo noluthembekileyo kubantu abalandela ulusu oluqaqambileyo. Ngokuhambela phambili kwetekhnoloji ye-skincare, itekhnoloji yamalungiselelo e-arbutin ihlala ivelisa izinto ezintsha. Kwixesha elizayo, kulindeleke ukuba sibone iimveliso ze-arbutin ezisebenza ngakumbi kwaye zizinzile, zizisa obu butyebi bendalo kuluhlu olubanzi lwabantu be-skincare. Ukukhetha ngobulumko kunye nokusebenzisa ngokuchanekileyo, i-arbutin iya kuba liqabane lakho elithembekileyo kuhambo lobumhlophe.
Ixesha lokuposa: Mar-31-2025
