Kwiphulo lokuqaqambisa ulusu, i-arbutin, njengesithako sendalo sokwenza mhlophe, ibangela uguquko oluthuleyo lwesikhumba. Le nto isebenzayo ethathwe kumagqabi esiqhamo sebhere ibe yinkwenkwezi ekhanyayo kwintsimi yokhathalelo lwesikhumba lwangoku ngenxa yeempawu zayo ezithambileyo, iziphumo ezibalulekileyo zonyango, kunye nokusebenza ngokubanzi.
1. Ukwenziwa kwekhowudi kwiNzululwazi yeAlpha Arbutin
I-Arbutin iphuma kwi-hydroquinone glucoside, efumaneka ikakhulu kwizityalo ezinjengeebhere, imithi yamapere kunye nengqolowa. Isakhiwo salo se-molecular siqulunqwe ngamaqela e-glucose kunye ne-hydroquinone, kwaye esi sakhiwo esiyingqayizivele senza ukuba ngobumnene nangokuthintela ukuveliswa kwe-melanin. Kwintsimi yokhathalelo lwesikhumba, i-alpha arbutin ithandwa kakhulu ngenxa yokuzinza kwayo okuphezulu kunye nomsebenzi.
Indlela yokwenza mhlophe ye-arbutin ibonakala ikakhulu ekuthinteleni umsebenzi we-tyrosinase. I-Tyrosinase yi-enzyme ephambili kwi-melanin synthesis, kwaye i-arbutin inqanda ukuguqulwa kwe-dopa kwi-dopaquinone, ngaloo ndlela inciphisa imveliso ye-melanin. Xa kuthelekiswa ne-hydroquinone yesintu, i-arbutin inefuthe elibi kwaye ayibangeli ukucaphuka okanye iziphumo ebezingalindelekanga eluswini.
Ngexesha lenkqubo ye-metabolic eluswini, i-arbutin inokukhulula kancinci i-hydroquinone, kwaye le ndlela yokukhutshwa ilawulekayo iqinisekisa ukuqina kunye nokhuseleko lwesiphumo sayo sobumhlophe. Uphando luye lwabonisa ukuba emva kokusebenzisa iimveliso ze-skincare eziqukethe i-2% ye-arbutin kwiiveki ze-8, indawo ye-pigmentation yesikhumba ingancitshiswa nge-30% -40%, kwaye ayiyi kuba ne-blacken phenomenon.
2. Iinzuzo ezipheleleyo zokhathalelo lwesikhumba
Esona siphumo sibalulekileyo se-arbutin bubumhlophe bayo obugqwesileyo kunye namandla okukhanya kwamabala. Idatha yeklinikhi ibonisa ukuba emva kweeveki ze-12 zokusetyenziswa ngokuqhubekayo kweemveliso ze-skincare eziqukethe i-arbutin, i-89% yabasebenzisi ibike ukuphucuka okukhulu kwithoni yesikhumba kunye nokunciphisa okuphakathi kwe-45% kwindawo ye-pigmentation. Umphumo wayo omhlophe uthelekiseka ne-hydroquinone, kodwa ikhuselekile kwaye ifanelekile ukusetyenziswa kwexesha elide.
Ngokubhekiselele kwiipropathi ze-antioxidant, i-arbutin ibonisa amandla anamandla okukhupha i-radical free. Iimvavanyo zibonise ukuba umsebenzi wayo wokulwa ne-antioxidant ngamaxesha e-1.5 ye-vitamin C, enokuthi ithintele ngokufanelekileyo i-UV eyenziwa yi-radicals yamahhala kunye nokukhusela iiseli zesikhumba kumonakalo owenziwe nge-oxidative. Ngeli xesha, i-arbutin ikwanazo iipropathi ezichasayo, ezinokunciphisa ububomvu bolusu, ukudumba, kunye nokucaphuka.
Ngomsebenzi wesithintelo solusu, i-arbutin inokukhuthaza ukwanda kweekeratinocytes kunye nokuphucula umsebenzi wokuthintela ulusu. Uphando lubonise ukuba emva kokusebenzisa iimveliso ze-skincare eziqulethe i-arbutin kwiiveki ezi-4, ilahleko yamanzi e-transcutaneous (TEWL) yolusu iyancipha nge-25% kwaye umxholo wokufuma kwesikhumba unyuka ngama-30%.
3. Ukusetyenziswa kunye nokulindelwe kwikamva
Kwintsimi yezithambiso, i-arbutin isetyenziswe ngokubanzi kwisiseko, i-cream cream, imaski yobuso kunye nezinye iimveliso zokunakekelwa kwesikhumba. Impembelelo yayo ye-synergistic enezithako ezifana ne-niacinamide kunye nevithamin C ibonelela ngezinto ezintsha ezinokwenzeka kwiifomyula. Okwangoku, ubungakanani bentengiso yeemveliso zeskincare eziqulethe i-arbutin idlule kwi-1 yebhiliyoni yeedola zaseMelika, kunye nezinga lokukhula lonyaka elingaphezulu kwe-15%.
Kwintsimi yeyeza, i-arbutin ibonise amathuba okusebenza ngokubanzi. Uphando lubonise ukuba inemisebenzi eyahlukeneyo yebhayoloji efana ne-antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, kunye ne-anti-tumor properties, kwaye ineempembelelo ezibalulekileyo zonyango ekunyangeni izifo zolusu ezifana ne-melasma kunye ne-post inflammatory pigmentation. Amachiza amaninzi amatsha asekwe kwi-arbutin angenile kwinqanaba lovavanyo lweklinikhi.
Ngokunyuka kwemfuno yabathengi kwizithako ezikhuselekileyo nezisebenzayo zokwenziwa mhlophe, ithemba lentengiso ye-arbutin libanzi kakhulu. Ukuvela kwe-arbutin akukhange kuzise uguqulo oluguquguqukayo kuphela ekubeni mhlophe kunye nokhathalelo lwesikhumba, kodwa lukwabonelele ngokhetho olufanelekileyo kubathengi banamhlanje abafuna ukhathalelo olukhuselekileyo nolusebenzayo. Esi sithako sobumhlophe bendalo kunye nesayensi sibhala isahluko esitsha kukhathalelo lwesikhumba.
Ixesha lokuposa: Feb-26-2025
